November 1997

As we travel from one National Forest to another, we visit the individual District Ranger Offices to introduce ourselves and gather information about their campgrounds. Very frequently, toward the end of the interview, the Forest person will ask, "How do you rate the different campgrounds?" Our answer always is, "We don't." Just between us, we do have our individual favorites but we would never say "This campground is a 10 and that one is a 9." After all, how can you compare a White Mountain National Forest campground with one in the Nebraska National Forest or Custer National Forest? True, each has a picnic table, fire ring, parking apron, and bathroom. But do you have any idea how many variations there are on these items? Factor in the differences in vegetation, topography, and weather. It would be mind-boggling, and probably very frustrating, to even attempt rating. Besides, the bases of our "fun" is not in the campgrounds but in the adventure of discovering what is over the next hill and around the next curve.

The Pacific coastline is an example of how interesting our adventure can be. The fun of not knowing for certain what awaits us and the frustration of not being able to do, see, and experience it all. We found the Pacific coastline to be beautiful but each beach has it's own unique beauty. Don Boileau, a former resident of Oregon, considers Sunset Bay to be THE place to visit along the coast. It is a beautiful place - sapphire blue waves of the Pacific vent most of their energy on the ancient rocks just outside the cove so they gently lap the Bay's cream-colored sand. This place is most outstanding at sunset when the sky progresses from the bright blues of daytime through a marbleized pallet of pastel blue, orange and pink to a velvet blue of night.

And than you have, a short drive south of Coos Bay, Bandon, OR. It has magnificent high bluffs that look down on a beach scattered with football size rocks carried over from the fanciful shaped monoliths standing off shore. The latter have names like Elephant Rock and Haystack. One formation reminded Suzi of a cartoon character called Cecil the Seasick Serpent. Bandon also has the "bestest" cheddar cheese and cranberry fudge plus the biggest $.65 ice cream cone you can imagine! A little farther south is Gold Beach. It is a gentle, level beach that actually alternates between beige sand and multi-colored stones. These stones are amazing. They vary from fresh-fallen snow white to the back-of-your-closet-at-midnight black. There are stones of Redskins' burgundy, clay brick red, sage and spring grass greens and Dijon mustard yellow. They are solid colored, striped, marbled, speckled, and splotched. None are larger than a baby's fist and some are so perfectly round you can play marbles.

Following US Highway 101, south of Gold Beach, Oregon, the state of California begins. The Highway turns away from the coast for a short-time and when you return to the coast its appearance has changed greatly. And so has the vegetation. We moved into the territory of the awesome Redwoods. But let us warn you about one feature of Redwoods - they require a great deal of moisture and obtain about 90 percent of that moisture from fog via their needles. This means areas with a lot of Redwood trees are always wet - not damp, not humid, but squishy wet. Under these magnificent, towering giants grow a beautiful, fragrant tree called the California Bay. Remember our remarking how we could smell butterscotch where Ponderosa pine grew? Well, you know California Bay trees are around without seeing a branch. The spicy scent of the Bay mingles with the musky smell of moist earth and the tang of the Redwoods to form a heady aroma you can't find at any perfume counter.

After a short stop in Napa, CA and a visit with Suzi's cousin in San Francisco we headed south to the world famous Big Sur. Starting with Carmel, CA and stretching south to San Simeon, this coastline is so totally different from what we had seen in Oregon and Washington. It is golden where the northern coastline was green, gentle and rolling rather than fierce and vertical. Even the Pacific Ocean seemed to have a different demeanor. Perhaps the best way to illustrate the difference is to suggest comparing the assortment of chocolate found in a Fannie May or See's candy store. Both are yummy but different.

It is funny. We liked the northern Pacific coastline better than the southern portion. But, our "favorite" restaurant, Nepenthe, and "favorite" campground, Kirk Creek, are located along the Big Sur. Nepenthe has been providing visitors to the Big Sur with good (but expensive) food and friendly service for over forty years. But it is not the friendliness, great character, and service that makes the place one of our favorites. Frankly, it's the sunsets. The sunsets you enjoy from the Nepenthe's terrace are a world-class, Technicolor, cosmic experience. (And we are being conservative.) Kirk Creek campground maybe Forest Service but does have a few "luxuries" such as flush toilets (unusual in the west) and running water. It also can boast of active sea otters, sea lions, and various sea bird communities, and a fabulous view of the Pacific Ocean!!! All this can be enjoyed without even stepping out of the trailer.

But enough about the fun stuff, we did work and surveyed some campgrounds in the Siskiyou, Six Rivers, and Los Padres National Forests. We weren't able to complete these Forests because of inclement (as in snow!) weather but did do those campgrounds along the coast. Incidentally, El Nino is a major topic here. Each weather report refers to it at least once and news reporters are constantly reminding people to get those sandbags ready. But they are about half-an-inch below their annual average! Guess that will change here soon.

We made it to Oxnard, California in time for Thanksgiving with Suzi's mother. We will continue working on the Los Padres National Forest from there and than move on to the Angeles National Forest just east of Los Angeles. That will be our most urban National Forest and we are curious as to how the National Forest is coping with the problems of crime and too many people too close. We plan on doing the Cleveland National from San Diego were we will celebrate Christmas with Fred's mother and family.

We have so much to be thankful for this year. The sale of our house, our good health (that includes Tory's), the truck's outstanding performance, slow but steady progress in finding a publisher, all the interesting and pleasant people we have met, good friends and list goes on. We hope your Holidays are filled with family and friends, love, and good cheer.

Suzi and Fred